Testing Interoperability Of 11 Electric Vehicles With Variety Of Charging Stations – Video

SEP 5 2014 BY MARK KANE 14

GE WattStation

GE WattStation

Intertek Transportation Technologies recently released a video presenting glimpses of interoperability testing between electric vehicles & charge stations.

In this project, Intertek is testing in Michigan a lot of EVSE models from different manufacturers and with different capabilities with 11 electric cars, all compatible with J1772 AC standard.

Besides standard interoperability tests, including communication and electric connection, there will be even lightning strike simulation.

The test schedule is full up to the end of 2014 and then a full report will be released, so it promises to make for some interesting reading on winter evenings.

“Intertek Transportation Technologies is currently undergoing a unique interoperability test program using 11 different electric vehicles and a wide variety of charging stations. This is a government-funded project to proof out the SAE J2953 standard and how the car and the charger talk to each other through communication lines as well as giving readings on voltage, current and timing patterns.”

Categories: Charging, General


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14 Comments on "Testing Interoperability Of 11 Electric Vehicles With Variety Of Charging Stations – Video"

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My Volt has a hard time with my GE Wattstation occasionally. I get the red line if I leave it plugged in for more than 24-48 hours. I’m not sure if its the GE Wattstation or the line voltage.

I’m very interested in the over/under voltage situations with cars. Thats the biggest issue I seem to have – the grid over or under volts a lot during the summer due to everyone’s old, current guzzling AC units and poorly insulated homes in this area.

Funny- Our Volt gives the ‘beeps of charging disruption’ any time we turn on the Vitamix blender in our house. And to be clear, that’s with the car plugged in to either our 240V charger or the Volt charger in the 110 outlet, and our house has a 200A service panel. Even with the solar panels going full-bore during the day, flip on that blender and… beep… beep… beep… beep… beep… beep… beep.

Neighbors probably hate us after those morning smoothies.

The only quirky thing I’ve noticed with the 110 volt OEM VOLTEC is, if you use a long extension cord on it, it will work for only a few minutes at 12 amps, but will run fine at 8 amps.

My Tesla roadster amazingly behaves the exact same way, in that if I use an extension cord at 110 – 15 amps ill get an extension cord message in the car and it wont charge, but at 12 amps (the lowest you can set the current to in a roadster), you get the message but it keeps charging as long as the juice at the car is at least 101 volts.

That’s an obvious voltage drop caused by your extension cable. What gauge and how long is the cable? You can fix that by using the shortest length possible, and using the largest cable (Smallest Gauge #) that you can find. Also, be sure that the plug and socket are very tight, old loose sockets are a fire hazard at 12 Amps…

I occasionally use a 10 Gauge cord, that’s 25 feet long to reach my Volt, I never need to use 8 Amps, but then I plug it into a 20 Amp socket that was installed just for the Volt, so it’s new and tight.

The problem tends to show up while on vacation. You can’t redesign your friend’s housing just to plug in the car, and with all the junk necessary to carry, I don’t also want to take up all the space with an 8 gauge 200 foot long cable.

Interestingly, I was at a Caddy dealer in Leroy, NY yesterday, and charged up my roadster at a no load 208 volts/15 amp load 198 volts. That means this VOlTEC charger dock will not even run a Volt at full speed, since 220 volts is needed at the car for full speed at 15 amps, not 198. That’s an amazing 2/3 ohm resistance roundtrip to the serving panelboard. They had 3-75 kva cans right next to the building, so I’d assume all the drop was in the 2 – #12’s.

I also have GE Wattstations. I have not had this problem with either my 2011 nor my 2014 Volt. So I suspect it’s a line voltage/wiring issue for you and KenZ. The 200A panel just allows to you add more breakers, it doesn’t give you more supply capbility from the line. So if the lines feeding the house/mixer outlet/EVSE outlet are undersized you will have voltage issues when you are pulling a lot. Now that I can see what the grid is doing through my PV display panel, I’m really amazed at how much it fluctuates. My inverter will sometimes sense fluctuations in the grid during low load, non storm conditions (aka no particular reason) and kick the grid out of my house for a few minutes until it stabilizes.

Remember when supposedly an improperly wired GE wattstation would burn out the data electronics in a Leaf? And the ‘humorous’ negotiation between GE and Nissan whereupon it was ‘decided’ that the LEAF would be “deemed at fault’. Its humorous because other people seem to have bugaboos with the Wattstation at times. Unlike the commercial GE durastation which I have heard zero complaints on. I predict Aerovironment ( the glowing reviews here and on plugincars notwithstanding) will fair poorly since the Tesla tech explained to me that the reason my Roadster won’t charge on most of them is due to poor plus5 volt regulation from the AV. So like AV can’t figure out how to make a watt or two of 5 volts dc? From my own personal experience, I know that the Legrande will not charge the tesla roadster, they just constantly flip their relays all day (continual negotiation), and the Schneider that I have will trip out on ground fault (as any other EVSE that trips at 5ma should also). Interestingly, they say in their brouchure that the EVLINK is compatible with the Tesla Roadster, but they neglesct to say that the only one that is compatible is the… Read more »

Then why don’t the participate in the standards committees and give suggestions on potential improvements to the standard and the testing process?

Huh? How does one do that? I’d do that, but its doubtful they’d listen to me. Schneider’s chief EVLINK engineer only called me because he was browbeat into it due to my distributor (Quermback Electric) made the first sale (to me) in the Northeast.

When he found I had successfully redesigned his product, both to work, and to not overheat, something the original product would do after 9 hours @ 30 amps, he couldn’t care less what I had done to effect either change. All his concern was the modified EVLINK worked and he wasn’t even interested to find out what was done, should a second person ever have the same issues I did. But as I mentioned, they still say the EVLINK is COMPATIBLE with the Tesla Roadster because there is one case of someone charging with their product (namely, me). But, no thanks to them.

Anyone, even the general public, can get on an SAE committee–I have done it myself before I got into the industry. You just need to track down the SAE committee organizer and apply.

That’s part of the project–to send evaluate the J2953 standard and make suggestions on possible changes to it. There are Intertek members on the J2953 committee.

This is one of the most important issues that needs to be addressed as soon as possible.

We need to make driving electric as simple as possible. It’s always difficult to change a person’s life habits, even when it’s a simple no Brainer. But it’s 10 times more difficult if it’s confusing. Multiple standards with complicated electrical abbreviations is confusing.

It really should be EASIER than plugging in your cell phone (Apple always makes this difficult with their stupid proprietary cords). And obviously easier than putting gas in a car. This way anybody could drive (and charge) anybody else’s car anywhere.

I wonder what they mean by “small Mom-and-Pop shop”? Hopefully they’ll test an EMotorwerks JuiceBox. I didn’t see it on the panel, but I would like to see how it compares to the others.

They’re ugly, dumb as rocks, and they clunk loudly, but I love the clipper creeks. Dependable wins out.