Tesla Model 3 To Come With 48-Amp Onboard Charger

Tesla Model 3

JUL 24 2017 BY ERIC LOVEDAY 79

File this under the now you know category.

This little nougat of Model 3 information flew under our radar until now, but regardless we still think it’s something potential 3 buyers need to know.

According to a source, the Tesla Model 3 will be equipped with a 48-amp onboard charger.

This is below the the 72-amp onboard charger found in the 100 kWh versions of the Model S, but given that the 3 will come with smaller battery pack choices, 48 amps should suffice.

With this charger, the Model 3 should have a theoretical maximum charge rate of ~ 11.5 kW on a 240-volt setup.

At 48 amps, the Model 3 won’t be able to pull the full amount of juice that the Tesla HPWC is capable of cranking out. The HPWC is rated at up to 80 amps. This means that if you don’t already own the Tesla Wall Connector, then you won’t necessarily need to spring for it, as a lesser amperage (and generally cheaper) unit will suffice.

For example, ClipperCreek offers the 48-amp HCS-60 for $899 here. Or you can get the $550 Tesla Wall Connector here. It can supply 48 amps or more. Or maybe you’ve already got a charger that’s rated 48 amps or close enough to it to get you by for now.

We’ll surely find out more Model 3 details in the days leading up to the big reveal on July 28. Stay with us for real-time coverage straight from the grand event.

Source: Model 3 Owners Club On Twitter

Categories: Charging, Tesla

Tags:

Leave a Reply

79 Comments on "Tesla Model 3 To Come With 48-Amp Onboard Charger"

newest oldest most voted

I put a 50A circuit so I could pull 40A continuous. 48A is fine by me, you can still add a considerable amount of range in a short period of time at 48A.

Perhaps a lower capacity charger would help protect the battery pack, without people getting mad that after some number of Supercharges, Tesla throttles back the rate of charge.

I agree. We have always used a 50a outlet. Only on one occasion did it not charge to full overnight, and that was my fault… I pulled in at 3am, and my wife left at 7am… LOL

Yep, glad I went with a 50A circuit in 2015. Very little extra cost over 40A but now I can max out a Model 3.

I should say *nearly* max out, because like you said I can do up to 40A continuous on my 50A circuit.

Yup! To feed 48 Amps continuously, you need a 60 Amp Breaker for that!

SO GLAD I put 3 50-amp outlets in the garage!
The wire can handle up to 60 amps, would just need to swap breakers.

My electrician told me I was going overboard.
I’m going to email him this article!

I’m sure your electrician told you that the 14-50’s in your garage should not be fed by over a 50 amp breaker unless further subdivided down in an additional subpanel.

The 48 amp wall box mentioned is hardwired only, as the largest ‘plug-in’ wallbox CC sells is 40 amperes.

Conceivably someone could come out with a Nema 14-60 plug-in 48 ampere wall box, but it has yet to happen.

Perhaps widespread sales of the ‘3’ will encourage someone to do so, and also install the formerly rare 14-60’s in residence garages.

Your electrician most likely ran 8 AWG copper for your 50A breakers, if you want to change the breaker to a 60A, you will have to have 6 AWG wire.

“Perhaps a lower capacity charger would help protect the battery pack, without people getting mad that after some number of Supercharges, Tesla throttles back the rate of charge.”

No, that’s a separate issue. Too much fast charging can prematurely age the pack, which is why Tesla throttles back Supercharging charging speed if the pack has been exposed to so much Supercharging that it’s in danger of that happening. Supercharging, and DCFC (DC Fast Charging) in general, bypass the internal (slow) charger, and charge the pack directly.

I’ve had the SunCountryHighway aka ClipperCreek 25 Amp model for my Leaf for 3 years now. For ToU charging starting at 7 PM this has been more than enough. I can’t imagine needing to upgrade that for the model 3. But if it did, there’s the Ontario 50% rebate.

I wonder what that translates to on a 3fase 230 system like in Europe?

On a standard Triphase+N 400V plug it would only take 16 A, which means no special charger needed anymore. On the other hand it means you can’t use the 32 A sockets.
So at 11 KW instead of 22 KW a 75 KW battery will take about seven hour to charge, that’s a lot compared to the three and a half it would have taken with 32 A.
Perhaps we will still have 32 A for Europe, we will see.

Of course you can still use the 32A sockets…. just at 16A.

So the on-board charger in europe is likely to be a different part. But I’d expect 11kW three phase (3x16A) and 3.6kW single phase(1x16A).

That’s the same setup as the 34kWh i3. Vs my 22kWh i3 with it’s 32A single phase charger they charge slower on my home single phase supply and faster on standard streetside 22kW chargepoints.

I installed 400v 16a (3x 240v, 16a) with a CEE 16A socket in Europe. I ordered a Wallbox Pulsar Type 2 charger to hook up. In that configuration it can add 11kwh. A neat little box that adapts up to 400V 32a if available. In that case it would charge up to 22kwh.

This is incredibly disappointing. The Supercharger version 3 (the one that makes 350 kW look like a child’s toy) is coming ‘soon’, and in light of constantly improving Tesla inverter technology, I had hoped that Model 3 would ship with a high performance on-board charger as default.

Now it seems that Tesla will take a step backwards, down to 48A from 72A. This might be necessary from an economics standpoint, or needed to keep the Model S and X as distinctly different ‘premium’ models, but it still feels disappointing.

I’ll just have to hope that a higher amperage charger will be available as an option.

For normal usage nothing more is needed. Where it will make a bigger difference is at Tesla destination chargers. However, that even isn’t a big issue very often. Sadly enough we had to use a 110 outlet at the Ritz in Key Biscayne this weekend as they still haven’t even installed a level 2 charger. 2 days plugged in and it still wasn’t full!

Sounds like S&X will be in a Premium league of their own …They’ve cut out lots of Premium features on the M3 that we all thought were industry standard for Tesla, I think we’ll find out more in time. These guys know what they’re doing ..BIG SURPRISE ??? A money Losing Business Cannot Run.

Well 110V outlets may be a little too low indeed. I think the US will at some point realize they need to make 240V outlets their new standard. Of course triphase+N 400 V is even better for car charging at home. At supercharger 400 V DC might increase to 800 V like Porsche or even 1600 V for easy Megacharging.

Not gonna happen. However there is talk of standard DC outlets to reduce the conversion losses from PV solar, batteries, etc.

Won’t ever happen. Also, what conversion losses? My 2 Sunny boy grid tied inverters are 96-98% efficient and the dc to ac conversion is a trivial part of the job they perform. Their most important job is to precisely load all the solar panels at the best resistive loading to get absolutely every bit of juice the entire bank of the panels is putting out. The units constantly dance around a center point with continuously changing light conditions to get the maximum possible output from the solar arrays. “Low brow” magazines like ECM constantly push 24 volt dc systems, but those are dumb. Any apreciable loading will have incredible cable heating losses. Just what the world needs – more incompatible outlets. The amount of drop happening in a household at 240 volts is around 2%. Not worth worrying about. Small 120 volt loads only extend back to the first subpanel and/or service panel where they are in series with other 120 volt loads. And any 400 volt dc systems will require arc extinguishing mechanisms that will negate any conceivable efficiency improvement, and the middle class wont be able to afford them so the vast majority of homes will never even… Read more »

240 is the standard in the states…. Its just you Europeans don’t realize it.

WRONG!!
https://www.powerstream.com/cv.htm

or a hundred other sources online, Bill

Praise the Lord! Another self-appointed wikipedia expert.

Although a wikipedia author myself (I wrote a substantial part of ‘Linotype Machine’), I know not to trust absolutely everything put there.

I also happen to have had a master electrian’s license here. You think maybe I understand how it works?

Your link just gave an idiotic list of plugs. In another comment I mentioned how the 120 volts is derived. You think, since I live here, I might understand what plugs and receptacles are commonly available since I work in the field? What an idiot.

If anyone else is as confused as JIMIFOX obviously is, the point is, that electric distribution in the states is actually at 200, or 230 volts (network areas are 5% higher, such as in parts of D.C., NYC, and the downtown areas of most cities).

115-120 volts is only a derived voltage for very small loads (continuous 12 amps or less, or intermittent up to 15 amperes).

Most utilities insist anything over 1/2 horsepower (373 watts output) be wired for 200 or 230 volt operation, but this is routinely ignored by homeowners and hobby shops – up to 2 HP vacuums, table saws and air compressors are routinely sold, but if the utility formally complains to the homeowner, the homeowner at his expense must rectify the situation.

This is also the reason why the vast majority of L1 Charging takes place at 12 amperes, since over that amount is above utility guidelines, and it shows how out of touch the SAE is.

Man, only 110V at the Ritz!!!!

1st world problems 😀

So what is 48 amps gonna be? Something like 40+ miles per hour? Seems pretty reasonable and even comparable to the S and X given what I suspect will be the Model 3’s improved efficiency.

The onboard AC charger has nothing to do with Superchargers, which are DC. This is only relevant to home charging. My slightly older Model S (Dec 2015) has a 40 amp charger, which lets me get 29 miles of range per hour of charge, perfect for overnight charging. Few people have a legitimate need of 59mi range/hr charge (which is what the 72 amp charger gives) at home.

You are correct. However where this will make a difference will be at destination chargers. Would be best for everyone if all cars were able to fully utilize HPWC to minimize charge times and wait queues

Since supercharging bypasses the inverter the 48A limitation would mostly apply to L2 charging. So at home charging overnight I can’t see that being a problem.
Assuming 75 KWhr as the largest model 3 battery and not including tapering we’re looking at 75/11.5 = 6.5 hours to charge from empty. Same for destination charging. I can’t see this being a big problem.

But if there is questioning about that, there will be no more buyers making the step, they need to be comfortable during their buying step. If I charge home and don’t be able to have my entire 80% range during a short night, that poses problems.

Maybe a used classic Dual Charger Model S is more to your need, or the higher rated chargers on the Model 3 will come at the same time as the Dual Motor option: 5-6 months later!

There’s no issue here:

48A * 240V = 11.5kW
If you want to charge to 80% of a 75kWh pack, you have
(75 kWh * 0.8)/11.5 kW = 5.2 hours, easily within the envelope of “a short night” unless your nights are REALLY short (in which case, I’m sorry!)

Furthermore, most people probably won’t need hundreds of miles of charge per night. But if you do, that’s fine, 5.2 hours.

Also, to reinforce what others have said, the capacity of the onboard charger has *nothing* to do with Supercharging. It affects only (not “mostly”, but *only*) L2 charging.

FWIW I have a Model S with dual chargers (80A). Over the course of two years I have needed the extra charging capacity exactly zero times. Every mile of charging (other than testing the dual chargers) has been either DCFC Supercharging or L2 at no greater than 40A. It’s been totally fine, never felt a need to upgrade my home charging infrastructure to support 80A. Interestingly, my Tesla sales advisor tried to talk me out of the dual chargers when I was ordering, the only time I’ve had a car salesman try to sell me *less* than what I was looking to buy.

Define “needed” 🙂 Can always wait a bit longer. I have taken advantage of the 80A countless times now, for example charged while at dinner, allowed for a second 40A Model S to use the destination charger overnight.

I first wrote that as “used in anger” but many people don’t recognize the idiom, which means (pretty much) “use for real, not just testing” and has nothing to do with being angry. I have never used my 80A in anger. That’s because I have never stopped at public L2 charging facilities greater than 32A (there is one hotel in my area with an 80A Tesla destination charger, which is where I went just to assure myself I do actually *have* the second charger in there and it works properly).

I don’t regret getting the 80A — there are a few road trips I intend to take that are not yet well covered by Superchargers and which do allegedly have >40A L2 charging available. But for the most part, in my experience, the state of the art is either Supercharging, or <= 32A.

The other use for dual chargers would be if I needed fast turnaround in my garage. But in two years of ownership, I never have. At this point, the nearby Supercharger covers the very unlikely case, so I doubt I'll ever spend the money it would take to upgrade my 50A circuit to a 100A + install a HPWC.

If you ever hear your car’s condenser fan running when charging at 80 amperes, you are not charging with 100% efficiency as the refrigeration system has to get its juice from somewhere.

You’re never running at 100% efficiency, ever, because thermodynamics. 🙂

I remember seeing some analysis of where the efficiency sweet spot is between charging too slow and charging too fast. Then I forgot it all, because the takeaway was “charge as fast as you need to, in order to get through your day” and “40A is perfectly fine”.

My former Roadster’s peak efficiency was at the 7-10 kw charging rate. Somewhat worse if you tried to charge it faster.

But all Teslas for whatever reason have absolutely horrible efficiency at 120 volt charging rates.

120 volt charging is practical for all EV’s and PHEV’s with the exception of Tesla unless you want to heat your garage in the wintertime with electric heat.

Rnobx67 — Unlike the older approx 70-80 mile range EV’s, with 200+ mile range EV’s you don’t actually have to have a full battery every morning just to do a normal day worth of driving.

Just like you don’t fill up your gas tank every morning before going to work, the vast majority of the time most people will be just fine if it takes 2 nights to fully charge the battery. All you need is to charge enough for the next day.

If you only need 50 miles of range the next day (still an abnormally high amount of daily driving) then a couple of hours is plenty of time.

If you to do back-to-back road trips, that’s what superchargers are for.

J.L., did you miss that other step, where they stepped back from 80 Amos, to 72 Amps?

I think 48 Amps will be fine, as they will be installing more City located Superchargers, where a quick 5-10 minutes will have you on your way! (Not even enough time to read just 1 Tesla Story and the comments on insideevs!)

“Now it seems that Tesla will take a step backwards, down to 48A from 72A. This might be necessary from an economics standpoint, or needed to keep the Model S and X as distinctly different ‘premium’ models, but it still feels disappointing.”

That’s an emotional response, not a logical one. Maximum safe charging speed is a direct function of pack size. Larger packs can handle more power, smaller packs must be limited to less, and there’s no need to put an internal charger into a car that can handle more current than the pack can safely handle.

If Tesla can save money on making the M3 by putting in a lower-power onboard charger, without reducing functionality, then we should be thankful Tesla is making prudent engineering choices.

What are you even talking about? 48 amps is the standard Tesla charger.

“This is incredibly disappointing.”

I’m not sure you understand that the onboard charger is for AC charging, not supercharging. Very few people, including S/X owners, need to charge at home at more than 50 amps. The majority of people would be fine with 30 amps at home.

The majority of Leaf owners charge on 15A in the U.S..

J.L. Brown: 2 things:

1). The supercharger version 3 – which will make 350 kw look small, is coming ‘soon’????

Oh really? Where and by what date? And it will be paid for by whom?

2). ’48 amperes is disappointing.’

Disappointing to whom? Its 50% larger than the 32 ampere BOLT ev, and the standard battery in the 3 isn’t even as large.

I’m sure you are one of the few who will buy BOSCH’s 120 ampere 25 kw DC output fast charger (available with mainly ccs but supposedly also Chademo outputs) for $8700. I’m sure the Chademo version, with a Tesla adapter, will suit your at-home needs just fine.

Like dashboard without instrumentation, think it’s not a good move for people want to do the step from ICE vehicule. The model S was much classic and no brainer (front fascia, instruments, supercharger…), it wasn’t that big. Now people have more to think about their conversion…

48A is higher power than other non-Tesla DCFC-capable cars support.

It’ll charge the base in under 6 hours and the 75 in 8 hours.

Even if you can’t charge fully during a short night, it’s only a problem if you’re then driving a long way and unable to use DCFC.

With DCFC expanding, I can’t see it being a long-term issue.

it’s about demystifying the charging problem. Wich is rebute new buyers. Fast charge : OK (payable supercharger) home charging : complicated, brain headache.

Having a 72 amp charger that requires a separate $500 device (plus installation) to use is not going to help anything.

Rnobx67: People are going to have to rethink their choice of a cheap electric car merely because 48 amperes is the fastest a Model 3 may be charged at home? The model 3 charging at this rate, even if totally dead, will be under 6 hours, assuming a 55 kwh battery, nominal efficiency, and a 11 kw charging rate. (in other words, around 230 volts at wallbox under loading). People usually have to sleep this long, and typically don’t need to fully recharge the next day if the battery was flat dead before they turned in for the night. Utilities, once ev’s become more commonplace, will strongly insist that charging takes place over the ENTIRE midnight time period, which is why charging rates such as the BOLT ev’s 32 amp maximum are more in keeping with utility wishes. If voluntary compliance doesn’t work, there is no law saying utilities cannot reclassify the garage as a ‘Commercial Area’ and insist a demand revenue meter, (with a monthly charge of $10-22 per kw) be installed. Actually in my area, commercial rates are currently so cheap, that If I charged more slowly, my electric bill would less than it would be under residential… Read more »

@ j.L.Brown the on board charger has nothing to do with supercharging

The Renault Zoe charges faster with the 22 kW or 43 kW AC charger.

The Renault ZOE, however, has no DC-charging capability at all. So 22/43 kW is its AC- and only charging option. Unfortunately.

Back in the older Model S’s you could order 1 onboard 10 kw charger or 2 (for more $) for 20 Kw. So this charger is about like ordering 1 charger which some people did…..ie this is OK. It’s a cheap car so they have to keep the cost down.

(⌐■_■) Trollnonymous

I’m sure some time later they may come out with am optional second charger but even with the 48A charger, this will still keep you within ones TOU rate.

Two problems with this story:

1. Tesla Wall Connector is exactly the same thing as HPWC. Two names for the same thing (“WC” in “HPWC” is “Wall Connector”).

2. The story needs to make it clear that the onboard charger has NOTHING to do with Supercharging. The Model 3 will be able to Supercharge just fine.

In fact, 48A is what the Model S and Model X come with by default too, with 72A being an extra-cost option. (At least, last time I looked it was, they keep changing the ordering details.)

It’s no longer an option at all on S/X. 90s and 100s get 72A chargers, the others get 48A. You cannot upselect or downselect the charger you get.

Model S and X now (since July 22) get the 72 A charger as standard. For Europe this translates to 3×24 A = 16.5 kW.

My info was a day out of date!

And how in Europe?

(⌐■_■) Trollnonymous

If it keeps the cost down then what’s the problem?

The “Model à trois” is supposed to be the affordable EV isn’t it? WTF are some being all $hitty about a scaled down charger that’s much faster than what any other non Tesla EV here in the US can charge at?

FYI, your circuit will need to be 60A with a 14-60R and cost around $55-$70.

NEC considers an EVSE continuous load so the continuous load has to be 80% of the circuit.

should work for my 110 volt outlet 🙂

6 to 8A? Come on! You can’t possibly splurge with a dedicated circuit and the whole 12A! That would be too bourgeois 😉

Given this news, I’m curious to hear others’ suggestions for a sensible yet future proof Model 3 home charging solution. My home currently has a 150A main, and I’m a little worried it may be a limiting factor. Should I be? FWIW, my box does have several unused breaker slots.

I know Tesla recommends a NEMA 14-50 plug and the use of their provided mobile charging connector, but I would admittedly find some value in the convenience of a dedicated wall connector, whether it be a Tesla one or another reliable brand like Clipper Creek. We don’t currently have any EVs so it’d just be used by the Model 3 for the foreseeable future.

Actually Tesla recommends getting a permanently wired wall connector as the mobile connector (UMC) is for occasional use while on the road. That said many people use their UMC or even buy a second one and get adapters for the outlets they already have in the house.

Ah, perhaps they have updated some of the verbiage on their site. The downloadable PDFs on the below page still state that a NEMA 14-50 is the recommended method for charging a Tesla. They show a photo of their mobile connector next to the statement, which may be misleading.

https://www.tesla.com/support/home-charging-installation#installing-charging-at-home

(The PDFs I’m referring to are the “NEMA 14-50 installation guide” and the “Mobile Connector and Wall Connector.”)

I know this topic has been discussed ad nauseam, but I’m still curious to hear others’ lessons learned and experience with certain setups.

As for my current setup, I think I’ll be OK because my HVAC and water heater both use gas for heat, and that mainly just leaves the AC in the summer as the main appliance drawing energy while the car will be charging overnight. I’m hoping to get an electrician to come out and give me a quote sometime soon, but I’ve waiting to see if Tesla drops any big surprises on us during the final unveil.

I’ve been happy with using the supplied UMC as my “dedicated wall connector”. This was what my Tesla sales rep recommended, and he was right. There are a few nifty wall mounting solutions for the UMC, but I just have it supported by a convenient shelf. If I go on a road trip, I unplug it and put it in the frunk, just in case. Other than that, it stays in the garage. There is no need to have it in the car for daily driving.

You can always install a HWPC later if you find you really want one. I can think of no reason to install a third-party EVSE unless you want to share it with a non-Tesla EV. For use with a Tesla, a third-party EVSE is less desirable since you have to break out your J1772 adapter to use it, and it lacks the handy-dandy button to flip open the charge port door.

I’m pleased to have taken my sales rep’s advice and kept the $500+ in my pocket.

Thanks for sharing your experience!

You’re welcome.

By the way, one other thing to consider would be whether your utility offers any kind of EV-specific rate. Mine (DTE) does. It required installation of a separate meter, but the rate is advantageous enough that it was still worth the expense.

You can try to figure out what your max would be. Depends on other loads.

If 40A charging is enough, which it is for many, a common, simple solution is to have a NEMA 14-50 socket installed and buy a 2nd UMC, which you leave plugged in. The other UMC is carried in the car. The UMC is $550 from Tesla.

If you have several Tesla vehicles as well as several Tesla HPWC’s just hook up the wiring between them in the Master/Slave hookup mentioned in the owner’s manual and set the maximum current that the combined wall boxes will be alowed to draw.

This is exactly the same thing the S/X have had for about 2 years. Including the 40A limitation imposed if you don’t get a HPWC installed on a higher-current circuit.

It’s a useful capability perhaps, but for me personally it doesn’t make much difference. Ironically it would have mattered more on my 2012 LEAF, because its range is so limited that I sometimes would derive a benefit from being able to charge more quickly at home. But with Model 3, I will have ample range for anything but very long drives, and on those few occasions what will matter is maximum charging speed, which will be DCFC by far… Even so, it’s good to see it gets a decent onboard charger. I wonder if it can use 400V three-phase TN directly, which is what comes into houses in Europe. Thus much higher power can be handled by much cheaper equipment, avoiding the high currents that lead to high cost. I wonder even more if it’s possible to utilize this with wireless! I think there’s no way to get three phases with wireless transfer (or it would cost a lot, as the three inducing fields would presumably need good physical separation), but I can’t think of a reason why 400 V should present a challenge. If I were to move from the condo to a house I guess I’d want to… Read more »

That is smaller than the Model S but still much more than the typical 7.2KW charger in most EVs today.

I’m not sure what the European Release date is for the “3”, but just as the default charger for now all Teslas in the states is 48 amperes I’m sure the default in Europe will be 3 X 16 for all Teslas

Not bad, 11kW is 50 miles of range per hour. That’s definitely a real benefit.

It’s not nearly that high. RWD Tesla Model S is 2.94 miles per (wall) kWh.

11kWh is thus 32.4 miles/hour.

This car will likely be a little higher. But given a Bolt is much smaller than this car and only gets 3.57 miles per (wall) kWh this car won’t be getting the 4.54 miles per (wall) kWh it would take for 11kWh to be 50 miles per hour.

I don’t see it making much difference for home charging. My Bolt will charge at 25 mph over a full charge. This would be 35 mph. It would still be full by morning. Only DCFC makes road trips practical. That is the real Tesla edge at this point.

Since they are putting the same 48 amp charger in the “3” as the “S”, I don’t think its a stretch to assume they will provide the same 40 amp charging cord with the “3” as for the “S” – even if in the “3” it is available for a small additional price and they provide a basic charging L1 brick as other manufacturers do in this price range.

When you buy a VOLT, or even a BOLT, the standard charging facility is a basic cheap L1 brick. Since the vehicle is such low-cost for what value it provides, it is not unreasonable to have anything more substantial than this optional at extra cost in this price range.

Low-Mileage drivers need nothing more.

Even the bare-bones $109,000 Roadster only had L1 charging standard in the states. For people who only used it as a ‘Show Car’ or for resale later – that was plenty good enough.

Of course I put in more since I’m a relatively high-mileage EV driver and something a bit faster is convenient in view of the number of miles I drive per week.

Wow, people must drive really long distances every day on this forum. My lowly 2012 Leaf can only charge at 3.3kW, and the longest charge for my typical day is 3 hours. So now you’re telling me my Model 3 will be able to charge at 3x that rate? Awesome, my average charge time will drop to 1hr. Super Chargers are the as the big advantage of Tesla, but now it sounds like 48A is not good enough for home when all the opposition can basically do 32A.

I think for the majority of people who can charge at home the 48A will be just fine.

Start will fill battery, drive 50mi, charge for couple hours still got a full battery.

Got a full battery, doing a highway run, super charge it.

I don’t know about all the rest of you, but I sleep at least 6 hrs, that’s when my car is charging and it will be full in the morning, or damn close to it.

When pulling up to a 2 corded docking station in the States, I was always bested by a ‘lowly 2012 Leaf’ charging at 18 amperes and 3600 watts, whereas my Brand New ELR (current limited to 15 amperes) would only charge at 3000. Since the vast majority of them are limited to 30 amperes, even my BOLT ev is only good for 5900-6000, depending on how far the docking station is away from the building.