3 Ways To Ruin Your Tesla Battery, Plus What It Costs To Replace It


Time to replace that Tesla battery due to bad choices? How much will this set you back and how can you avoid it?

Our good friend Sean Mitchell (uncle Sean) purchased a used Tesla Model S with a 60-kWh battery pack about three years ago. It had 16,000 miles on it and he’s racked up another ~130,000 miles since. Needless to say, Sean gets a ton of use out of the car. However, he recently learned that he’ll have to have the battery replaced. What caused it to fail? How much will a new Tesla battery cost?

Since Sean’s job as a real estate agent requires a lot of driving and the 60-kWh battery doesn’t offer a huge amount of range, he has to charge often. He finds himself driving upwards of 150-200 miles some days. Unfortunately, for a long time, Sean was charging to 100 percent every single time. On a busy day, he’d start with a full charge and still have to charge up again before the day came to an end. Needless to say, two charges a day to 100 percent have not been friendly to his battery, which degraded more than usual.

In addition, uncle Sean points out that it’s not healthy to run the battery down to a low state of charge. While he doesn’t say in this video that this is something he has done regularly, it’s obvious that he has. He says that he has to stop at a Supercharger nearly every day since he’s running low on range. In the other video (below) Sean is pushing the car to the end of its range and says he has pushed it further on other occasions.

Finally, Mitchell points out that high temperature is a battery killer. Being that he uses Superchargers a few times a day, this high voltage degraded his battery quicker. He also talks about how it’s not the easiest task to figure out how much your battery is degrading and it’s not something Tesla sheds much insight on. Sean shows how to get an idea of your battery health, but adds that it would be fantastic if Tesla provided more of this type of information for owners.

Mitchell offers a wealth of information about the whole situation, including the out-of-pocket cost of a Tesla battery replacement. Check out the video for more details.

Video Description via Sean Mitchell on YouTube:

3 ways to ruin your Tesla battery and how much a new one cost

Teslanomics on battery degradation: https://youtu.be/Gb_i4ihsJ1w

Battery degradation shared by owners: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/…

Below is Sean’s previous video, which explains the situation that caused his Tesla Model S battery to fail.

Categories: Battery Tech, Tesla

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99 Comments on "3 Ways To Ruin Your Tesla Battery, Plus What It Costs To Replace It"

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Do NOT upgrade to the unlocked 75 kWh.

The way you charge and drive represents tremendous abuse of the 60 kWh pack; simply having a 75 kWh limited to 60 kWh provides a protective buffer against damage from fully charging when it is not necessary, and might provide some protection to the pack against draining it completely by driving it to zero. If you do pay to unlock the full 75k, then that protection against bad habits will be erased.

Since you are already accustomed to a 60 kWh battery, the new pack will still offer some unlooked-for benefits — it will charge to 60 kWh faster, and may provide slightly more powerful acceleration than the previous pack.

Or, just set the max battery charge to 80-90% and still have the ability to access your entire battery for long road trips. No bad habits form when you set it and forget it (for 80-90% capacity).


I used to park my Tesla over a camp fire, every single time. Unfortunate for me….

Yes, like John said, I will set the max charge to 90% and eventually look to trade it in for a Tesla with more appropriate battery size.

Actually you did it exactly right. Your battery failed while still under warranty. Now presumably you have a new battery (hopefully not just another used battery) and you have just got another 140,000 miles of life on your car at least, even if you continue using “bad habits”. Do you really need another car?

I actually experienced the same tow truck nightmare in the San Francisco Bay Area. Needed a tow at night and the dispatcher lied and said a truck was on the way. Hours passed and when I called to complain, they said that the truck they sent was stuck in traffic on the 680. Well you would not take the 680 to get to where I was from where he supposedly was coming from and there was no traffic on the phone on the 680 at 9:30 at night. At that point, I abandoned the car and dealt with it the next day.

Lesson learned? There are little to no tow trucks at night. Leave the car, take Lyft, or whatever, go home and deal with it the next day.

A lot of Tesla owners are complaining why did he get a new battery and Tesla tells me that my massive battery degradation is just normal degradation that is not covered under warranty.

While you may be right that he shouldn’t upgrade, I don’t know that I’d describe his actions as “bad habits”. It sounds more like unfortunate necessity to me. I mean, honestly this is kind of showing the significant shortcomings that remain with EVs. If you have to drive them a specific and limited way not to break them then the general public is never going to accept them.

“…this is kind of showing the significant shortcomings that remain with EVs.”

Looks to me much more like a case of someone choosing the wrong car to buy. If you need to haul a lot of stuff around frequently, then you should probably get a pickup, minivan, or SUV. Buying a Volkswagen Beetle is probably not the right choice.

Similarly, if someone is driving 150-200 miles a day on a regular basis, then a Tesla Model S60 is not the right car. Someone with that kind of lifestyle needs a car with better range.

No one car fits the needs of everyone; that’s why there are so many different models. That’s not going to change just because people start buying PEVs (Plug-in EVs) instead of gasmobiles. And switching from gasmobiles to PEVs isn’t going to end the problem of someone buying a car that’s not suitable for them.

I would think a car, and a user with needs like this would be perfect customer for a car with a wireless charger (of course given ample ability to charge when he park). There will be no need to top it off to 100%, and no need for a huge battery.

I hope wireless charging will be common, and wide spread. Just use the same way to pay, wireless of course.

For people who use a car for inner city driving. . this would be perfect. Could use a fairly tiny (and cheap and light) battery, that offers a cheap EV for as many people as possible.

Companies like Mazda that do not offer EVs yet, could have buy an electric drive unit to replace the ICE engine and transmission from companies like Bosch, and just replace the gas tank with a small (but large enough) battery. Just minor changes to a car they already make, to give them access to EV customers fast.
They already have the factory to make the car, just add a parallell line somewhere.

Exactly, they need a car with twice the range of their daily commute.

Completely agree.

You should be able to drive the car as you wish (of course within the boundaries set by the car). Until you need to worry about how charging to 100% or running it ’till empty affects the life of your battery is a no-no for the average consumer.

Alas, battery tech is not there yet, but is improving fast. Within a few years there is no need to worry about this anymore. Right on time for the ‘early majority’ of EV adopters.

Battery tech advances probably won’t change the fact that charging to 100% results in faster degradation.

Frankly, needing a battery replacement after 160,000 miles doesn’t sound terrible. You could get more mileage out of it by charging it more conservatively — but you don’t *have* to.

I’d say the Model 3 has it covered – the base Long Range model goes 350 mi per full charge (based on Consumer Reports second road test, using the default (higher) regen setting). Charging it to 85% or so would cover the day (except perhaps in winter).

I hope this video doesn’t get much notice by the general public. This video is all that most new car buyers need to see to go and buy another ICE powered car. This is the horror story most people imagine will happen to them if they buy an electric car. All this talk of having to manage and baby your battery, or suffer the consequences is NOT what new car buyers want to hear.

Do people seriously worry that much about what state the car will be in after driving 145,000 miles under worst-case conditions? Wouldn’t most combustion cars be in seriously bad shape as well at this point?…

They often are, yes, but people don’t think that way. People are easily scared from EVs, even those who would like to try one (usually people that don’t actually know much about them, as far as I can tell).

Yea, because many people who buy an electric car are those that drive a ton…. and if this is what happens, they will simply save the money and get a normal car.

Most people who commute to work drive less than 40 miles per day like I do … I drive My Chevy Volt 98% all electric with 0 range anxiety. 6.5 years and no problems and range is about same as new.

Got that right…
I’ve seen most ICE need major work before 145K

Range is king.


So it turns out if you charge the Tesla like most people charge their LEAF, it degrades a lot and often fails..?

I’ve always thought it is extremely unfair how these comparisons are done. People are so impressed when a Tesla 90 kWh pack degraded “just 3-4%” after a couple years, but forget it’s about équivalent to a 24 kWh pack degrading 15-20%! And of course the small packs are far more often at a very high and a very low SoC.

Actually, the Leaf doesn’t allow users charge to 100%. Tesla gives its users ultimate flexibility, assuming its owners are knowledgeable about battery management. Nissan doesn’t assume that level of knowledge.

Neither does Tesla… both cars say “100%” on the dash, but neither is truly at 100% state of charge. All BMS have an upper and lower limit. For simplicity, they show 100% on the dash (ie 100% of the usable capacity).

Technically, there is no such thing as 100% state of charge… The cut-off is always a somewhat arbitrary choice. The one given in the cells’ data sheet is meaningful in the sense that other data (such as the claimed cycle count) refers to it — but other than that, it’s just as arbitrary as any “usable capacity” limit set by the car maker.

It is not a bad point. My 2013 Leaf is at about 88% SOH. So it lost 2.4% per year. A Tesla would have degraded less, but the battery is 3 to 4 times the size so it definitely has gone through much fewer charging cycles for the same distance.

Leaf degradation gets a lot more press because of the hot climates issue which causes some really bad results, and because there is much less range to work with, so if you are down 10% you notice it, whereas on a Tesla it’s not a big deal.

Would love to see internal data from both Nissan and Tesla on battery replacement rates.

My 2013 (3/13 build date) Leaf with 81% SOH after 60K + miles and quite a lot of Quick Charges (640 CHAdeMO), is showing a bit more battery degradation than your Leaf.

Ambient Heat and more L 3 fast charging is the basic difference between an additional 1% + annual battery degradation on these Older Leaf Battery Chemistries ( Pre-Lizard ). Fast Charging is probably the main culprit here, for close to 50% more (3.5 %) annual degradation, in the above 2013 Leaf depreciation comparison.

My 2012 Leaf (November 2011 build) is at 69% SOH at 69,500 miles, only 4 quick charges. I bought it certified pre-owned from a Nissan dealer and I’m starting to suspect that it was charged to 100% regularly by the previous owner, stored at 100%, and run low. I thought my car’s degradation was just destiny, then I stumbled on this guy who lives a few miles from me with a car of the same vintage, and has much less degradation,

Charging behavior really does matter.

I charged my 2012 LEAF, purchased in October of 2012, to 100% regularly. I won’t say no one knew back then, but I certainly didn’t know, that charging to 100% was bad as was running the battery down to a low state of charge. As a result, my battery failed under warranty. My new battery was installed in June of 2017 and I only charge to 80% though I do have to charge daily. I am currently at 98% SOH.

I have long believed that while TMS does provide a benefit, charge cycles and managing the state of charge also weighs heavily. A larger battery gives you that flexibility.

Go to Plug in America Battery Surveys. Tesla has about 3 to 5 times the battery replacement rate. Some people have complained their Tesla “bad survey data” was somehow removed from the charts.

This is true and should be heard and learn by all here or elsewhere self called specialists and critic of Leaf degradation complaining about lack or TMS and bla, bla, bla.

They can’t understand how using a smaller pack is the major culprit, way more than lack of TMS.

A bigger pack last much longer in any form or chemistry than a smaller one, period.

It’s simple as that.

Very interesting point! After 100,000 miles and 4.5 years, charging to 100% twice per day for the last 2 of those years (and to 100% once and ~80% prior), I’ve lost almost 20% of original capacity of my 2014 Leaf, or about 4.3 kWh (from 21.7 kWh). If you compare that to a 90D, with about 84 kWh usable (per WK057), 4% degradation is 3.4%. Considering my car isn’t thermally managed and has had many full cycles, I’d say it’s doing pretty good in absolute terms!

(I do look forward to getting a 60+ kWh battery with thermal management though to replace our 2nd car to allow for road trips.)

Your numbers are off. A 90 kWh pack degrading 3-4% would be equivalent to a 24 kWh pack degrading 11-15% — and that ignores that the long-range Teslas tend to drive more on average.

In other words, while your point certainly has some merit, Tesla batteries still seem to do better on equal terms.

Either way, the longevity advantage of larger batteries is just yet another reason why Tesla’s choice to attack the market from the top end rather than the bottom was such a smart decision…

This is ~700 full cycles, pretty typical for consumer lithium ion batteries.

Sometime around 2015 they switched to a slightly different chemistry. The Tesloop Model S that needed a new battery at 200k miles (~800 full cycles) was the old battery, Their Model X that still has its original battery at 300k miles (~1200 full cycles) has the newer battery.

A replacement is 15-20k today but will be sub-5k in 5 years???? Funny guy.

I wish you were right about the sub $5k replacement in 5 years. I’m not so optimistic, I think it will still cost around $10k to have the battery replaced.

As Doggydogworld mentioned above the newer chemistry and longer range batteries will last much longer, really rendering the replacement battery topic moot. The Tesloop Model Xes are over 200,000 miles, one with over 300,000 miles and still with 85% or higher range. And this is after driving them hard and Supercharging every day. The 2170 cells in the Model 3 may be even more durable. For most people the car itself will be at end of life before the battery packs would need to be replaced.

There’s no real data behind the 5 year prediction – just observing what’s happening in the market with Model 3, additional Tesla vehicles, home battery storage, and other auto makers producing EVs. Time will tell, won’t it, Doggydogworld?

No doubt the prices will keep coming down significantly. $5000 still seems a bit optimistic, though… Something like $7000 – $8000 would be my guess.

What would you guys predict a replacement Model 3 pack costs, given it should be the least expensive pack on a per KWh basis?

Even if Tesla hits $100/KWh at the pack level, that’s about $7500 to build it. So maybe it retails for $10K and the core return is offset by installation cost?

Any chance we’ll see a pack cost less than that in the next half decade?

Replacement will be a non-issue if the pack lasts 300k-400k miles. At 15,000 miles a year for the average driver a Model 3 would reach 300,000 miles after 20 years. The car will be dead by then or if one really wanted a new pack I would assume it would be much, much cheaper to replace in 20 years.

The abused Tesloop Model Xes are still going strong with their original packs after 200,000-300,000+ miles.

That’s a big if there though. I sincerely hope that the batteries last that long. I’m not sure I’m that optimistic about current battery technology being that robust.

Tesloop cars aren’t really abused. They Supercharge but they don’t leave the battery in a fully charged state. That’s the major cause of degradation according to Jeff Dahn’s research.

Lithium cells also degrade with calender life, due to aging of separators and such. Tesloop data doesn’t really shed any light on that. I definitely would not assume a lithium battery that handles 300k miles in 2 years OK will last 25 years at 12k miles per year.

Yes but the average life of a modern car is around 150,000 miles. Even at 200,000 miles it is looking like these packs will outlast the cars. Shelf life or not. 200,000 miles will need a shelf life of 15-16 years ending with at least 75-80% capacity. That won’t be a problem.

I don’t know how many Tesla’s Tesloop has but they state for one vehicle: “The Model S has had its high voltage battery replaced twice under warranty at 194,000 and 324,000 miles.” https://www.tesloop.com/blog/2018/7/16/tesloops-tesla-model-s-surpasses-400000-miles-643737-kilometers

half a decade from now? I would say a rebuilt/refurbished Model 3 battery pack will be about $2500-3500, and a used pack with under 100K miles out of a wrecked Model 3 will be $2000-2500. (more after accounting for inflation causing the value of the dollar to drop).

I’m not sure why anybody would buy a brand new battery to put into a Model 3 that is out of warranty, any more than someone would buy a brand new factory automatic transmission for an older ICE vehicle. The entire issue of the cost of brand new replacement battery packs is a red herring in the long term, the same as Prius owners have already found out.

I don’t understand going sensational, instead of using your logic. Logic sounds boring and boneheaded, I guess. Oh yeah, there’s an 8 year battery warranty, too. Ten in CARB states.

“I’m not sure why anybody would buy a brand new battery to put into a Model 3 that is out of warranty…”

Yes, that’s the problem with asking this question as if it’s a reasonable scenario. Buying a new battery pack for an old EV is simply not something that any reasonable person would do. As you say, at worst someone would be buying a salvaged or refurbished pack. No point in putting in a new battery pack with ~12 years of life, if the car itself has only perhaps 5-6 years left in its life.

Pu-Pu said:
“Buying a new battery pack for an old EV is simply not something that any reasonable person would do.”

That is bullsh*t. Plenty of reasonable people would put a new battery pack into an old EV, especially a Tesla with lifetime free Supercharging. Besides it’s highly doubtful that a Model 3 battery pack can even be refurbished. See my comment to Nix above explaining why.

Perhaps you shouldn’t talk in absolutes. You don’t own or drive an EV and never have in the past. From your past comments, you’ve said that you’ve only owned and driven crappy economy cars. Mechanically, modern cars, EV and ICE, last much much longer than the unreliable cars of your youth. Also, people would be more inclined to want to keep an older, high performance, luxury car on the road, especially a future classic like the Tesla Model S or X. They’re going to be ’57 Chevy of the EV age, and plenty of “reasonable people” put brand new small-block Chevy crate engines into very old ’57 Chevys.

He did say Model 3 not S or X. He threw out around 20 year life for a model 3. That is reasonable. And there is also the argument that non-autonomous cars will be junked earlier and it is unclear where the 3 will sit there.
Most model 3’s do not have free unlimited supercharging. With their production, it will be a very common car and thus not a rare classic. It also means there will be plenty of used batteries available.

If a used battery is $2500 and a new is $7500, then it would likely be a poor decision to buy new on a 12 year old car – even if it was to last 30 years. Batteries are reasonably easy to test and catastrophic failure is uncommon – unlike used engines or transmissions as an example.

But agreed – no absolutes. But with a 300-400k life, the number of new replacements on a common car will be a small number. I tend to go with no car built today will be on the road in 30 years because of tech changes – which may be mandatory.

Nix said:
“I would say a rebuilt/refurbished Model 3 battery pack will be about…”

I highly doubt that the Model 3’s batteries can be refurbished. Since the individual cells are glued to a bandolier and have the flame suppressant foam surrounding them, they are most likely unserviceable. In other words, the bad cells can’t be removed to replace them.

Are S/X packs really even refurbished? I know they replaced a lot of contactors in the early years, but that doesn’t count. I just don’t see them tearing modules apart and replacing individual cells. I assume they can swap out a bad module, but do they ever even do that?

I definitely agree Model 3 packs aren’t designed with refurb in mind.

I doubt it even makes sense to replace individual cells (or modules). Unless they were somehow faulty from the beginning, all cells should age at a similar rate; and also you want to mix old and new cells with vastly different properties.

Ergh… *Don’t* want to mix.

I don’t think there is much you can refurbish in a battery pack, short of replacing all the modules with new ones — which would cost almost as much as a brand new pack. (If it’s even possible, considering ongoing technology changes.)

Either way, we are likely looking at some $7000 – $8000 for a new ~75 kWh pack or refurbished pack with new modules in 2023.

And what happens to the degraded pack?
I’d love to pick up a degraded pack for my 48v off grid solar power system. The light charge rate should make the batteries last a lot longer. Really just need a multiple of 2 modules but people are selling a pair of reclaimed modules (10 KWh) for $3000 USD !!!!

Tesla refurbishes battery packs in general, but I don’t know about 60’s.

I know! I wanted to buy some too for a similar project but I’m not paying that! For that price might as well buy the powerwall 2 which is double the price but has 40% more juice, bms and all setup and ready to go.

If the batteries are already significantly degraded, they probably don’t have much life left in them — especially in an application that basically means daily cycling.

141,000 miles….that’s pretty good. Consumer Reports (www.consumerreports.org/) says the average life expectancy of a new vehicle these days is around 8 years or 150,000 miles.

I’m sure it will keep working as is but you’ll have reduced range. So either deal with that or buy a new battery.

That’s pretty pathetic if true. A vehicle should last at least 10-15 years and to 200,000 miles. Less than a decade is rather skimpy. But I guess what you’re quoting is a composite, so a car that’s driven less should last longer?

There are plenty that are lasting longer than that, this article is about an extreme use case.

It’s not true; Speculawyer is mistaken. The average life expectancy of a car way over 8 years.

Consumer Reports says the following: “the average age of all cars on the road is more than 11 years, up from about eight years in 1995, according to Polk research.”


The “average life expectancy of a car” (how old it is when it’s junked) and “the average age of all cars on the road” are two completely different things.

Not only are they different, but I think lots of ppl are holding out for EVs, or at least waiting to see what will happen.
Keep in mind that the fools today that buy luxury vehicles (sedans, SUV, and X-overs ) will pay a pretty penny, but will watch resale plummet over next couple of years like never before. In another 2-4 years, ice sedans will likely not be in the dealers, while luxury E sedans will be.

The average light vehicle in the US is now over 10 years old; CU doesn’t hang with the kind of people who drive old cars.

I think you mean CR, not CU, and actually, they DO hang with them.

Wrong. Average CURRENT age of a car on the road is OVER 11 years! The average age a car has when it is junked is even higher!

Why his dash still have the old UI of 2013? No software updates ?

I don’t have autopilot. All autopilot cars have the new dash. 🙂

Non-Autopilot hardware cars (thru Q3 2014) retain the better speed/regeneration display. What’s worst is not having Autopilot, having the hardware, and getting force-updated to the AP sensor cartoon. People in these vehicles were fed an OTA update that took away the screen in this video, and placed a smaller speed/regen screen aside the sensor display.

Ah, updates.

I would trade my 85 for 100kw and pay 10,000and be happy as can be

I’m not sure you can upg from an 85kW to a 100kW… wiring may be different?

It’s been done by wk57 and Tesla has changed some 85 to 90

141K miles is only about 700 cycles.

I expect better performance than that.

Now, is that replacement free/covered under warranty? If so, what is the condition of that triggering?

Yes, it is under warranty. Condition is the standard 8 year unlimited mile warranty.


He’s asking how low does the battery capacity have to drop to trigger the replacement of the battery under warranty. IIRC, Tesla will replace the battery under warranty if capacity falls under 70%.

You never mentioned in either of your videos what was the drop in capacity did your battery experience. Do you know?

If you do a BETTER job of caring for your battery, then you risk needing a replacement AFTER warranty expiration. So the less mindful people are rewarded!

I understand the guy’s frustration……. ON the other hand, 141,000 miles on an ICE car you might start to expect engine or transmission problems, although I have gone 200,000 miles in an old Caddy with minimal problems. So springing for a new battery pack doesn’t sound like all that unrealistic an expense… If he can get a much better used one gratis from Tesla, then that is so sweet even though the Warranty Battery will of course be used.

Of course, he didn’t say, but he said he’s been here 3 times before, but that might be just not paying attention to how dead the battery was.

But, so much for those articles that said that a Model “S” battery will last forever. Not today it didn’t.

Under normal use, I think my battery would have gone much further than 141K miles. I’ve pushed it pretty hard.

Is it that you get free supercharging, and this is the reason you don’t charge the car slowly at home?

I thought Tesla was going to implement a policy strongly discouraging the ‘locals’ from supercharger use and reserving Supercharger spots strictly for those taking trips or on vacation.

He drives upwards of 200 miles a day around Colorado as a real estate agent. I believe he’s not near home or able to go home in between appointments and has to replenish the battery en route.

Understood – two points I was looking for clarification were:

1). Does he NEVER charge at home and SOLELY use Superchargers since the “S” gets it free?

2). Has Tesla greatly relaxed its legitimate peeve regarding locals or taxi drivers (Uber, etc.) using up all the charging stalls, when the concept was initially supposed to be those taking road trips or on vacation?

Most large bevs could handle this distance without EVER visiting a supercharger. As a for instance, the 60 kwh BOLT could do this every day, as 200 miles could be recouped in the 7 hours he sleeps every night.

If so, and he likes the free electricity, perhaps he could find a destination charger where the owner doesn’t mind giving him free electricity and he could just walk home to sleep.

I have had my Smart for over 5 years now and the batteries still perform perfectly, so by the time they go bad, it will be time for me to get another car, maybe a used model 3

Where do you live? It is weather that makes HUGE difference. If you live in SW America, leafs, smarts, etc will not last but a fraction of what they should. Live in a moderate place like northwest America or western Europe, and you will get perfect lifespan ( for now; AGW will likely change that ).

The exact reason I bought a used model S with 85 kwh battery and charge it to 50% during the week and 70-80% on weekends. On my first long distance trip a week ago (to Mammoth) I charged to 70-80% at the two superchargers along the way. Estimate my battery has lost about 5% over the last 5 years, no detectable loss since I acquired it a year ago.

PS Jeff Dahn (has contract with Tesla to do battery research for them) says charging to only 70% routinely is better for battery, but don’t have to worry about the low end.

I would bite the bullet and pay for the battery upgrade sounds like you need as much range as you can get!

So, why does not the article TELL us battery replacement cost?

I don’t see how the list of “bad choices” bodes well for the Tesla Semi, … or a “working man’s” Tesla pickup, for that matter. ————– i.e. drive a lot, supercharge, .. drive a lot, supercharge — isn’t that the point?

/ rough guesstimate (based off of range) — looks like the battery is done with about 23% to 24% degradation ? (127+34)/210
//wonder how much high altitude (thin air) affects the car’s ability to transfer heat out of the batteries?

There was a claim (don’t remember by whom) that the Semi will use NMC rather than NCA chemistry. Also, it will likely by hard-limited to a somewhat lower maximum charge, like some other EVs (and the Powerwall/Powerpack) already are. For these use cases, an option to occasionally charge more — which some people abuse to do it all the time — probably doesn’t make sense…

It’s an unfortunate reality of not #RTFM…

Be sure to select an EV with enough extra range so you can keep it in the 20-80% charge even if you have to quick charge once a day. We should recommend selecting an EV with twice your daily commuting requirements if you can. That will allow you to keep it in the 20-80% LION sweet spot and allow for heat and AC, etc. . Hopefully his new battery combined with some usage changes will improve his battery longevity. This can be a problem with all EVs if used 0-100% and it can be even worse if combined with high ambient temperatures since active cooling is not designed to mitigate high ambient temps. He will love his new batteries.

Sean, how do you find time do your real estate job?

Of course this problem has been solved by now, but my question is if they sent you a larger battery why the hell does it cost more to use what they’re sending you? You have to pay for the software? this is rip off, I’m sorry. This like saying you buy a computer that comes with a 1 TP hard drive, but that hard drive fails during warranty but they no longer carry the 1 TP hard drive all they have is 2 TP drives, so they will fix your computer and lock out half the hard drive unless you pay for it! Does that make sense to anyone?

Interesting . When a Tesla battery goes bad shame on the owner for abusing the car. When a Nissan LEAF battery goes bad shame on Nissan for some sort of engineering defect they refuse to fix. Seems to be a whole lot of hypocrisy here. All EV owners need to learn to take better care of their cars. • Avoid constant 100% “Top Offs” and letting the car sit at 100% charge, especially in the heat. This can even harm or brick a very “Low Miles Vehicle”. This can apply to Lithium Ion (LION) hand tools as well if left in your car in the heat. • Avoid deep discharges below 20%, recharge as soon as possible above 20% charge capacity. • Operate your vehicle in the 20-80% LION “Sweet Spot” for most daily use, charge to 100% immediately prior to travels out of town or for extra travels and errands. • Which brings us to: When not used for extended periods (weeks or months), store your car (or LION lawn tool and hand tool batteries) near 50% to 60% charge. This is considered “Charge Neutral” for the maximum “Shelf Life”. • If Actively Cooled Batteries, leave your vehicle plugged… Read more »

I’m glad he got his car fixed an he is back on the road in a zero emission vehicle.

Funny thing when a Tesla owners does this to their battery the EV experts all blame the owner for ruining the car battery. When a Nissan LEAF owner does the same thing and wears out a battery by not following the manufacturers instructions they blame Nissan for being deficient and lacking TMS. I guess they are trying to propagandize Tesla to the max and get out as many referral codes as possible.

When you select your EV try to select one with twice the range of your daily commute. You need that extra range for heat, AC, and extra errands. If you can use your EV in the 20-80% charge range and save 100% charges for those trips to Granny’s house your EV should last a long long time.

I thought 2013 Model S 60kw was limited to 125,000 miles for the battery warranty.