Watch This Big Brake Install On Tesla Model 3


How about some huge brakes for your Tesla Model 3?

Our good friend Sasha Anis and his aftermarket company Mountain Pass Performance are really ramping it up as the Tesla Model 3 lands in more driveways. We recently shared a track test in which the car was shown with and without some brake, tire, suspension mods. Now, we get to watch as a big brake kit is installed on the vehicle, complete with a “how to” for qualified mechanics.

While we’ve seen some burned up brakes on a Tesla Model 3, this was only because the car was being put through the paces at Laguna Seca. Most sedan’s stock brakes are simply not made for this. Sasha told us in his last video that the stock brakes would burn up in these type of conditions. If you plan on racing your Model 3, a brake upgrade will likely be necessary.

Mountain Pass shows us its MPP Page Mill 356mm Big Brake kit and how to install them. If you know anything about cars, a brake job is not something that’s considerably difficult or even that time consuming … at least in most cases. Still, Mountain Pass reminds us that the installation process should be performed by a licensed mechanic.

Do you have aftermarket brakes on your Tesla? Which company did you choose? How are they holding up? Did you install them yourself? Please feel free to share the information with us in the comment section below or start a new thread on our InsideEVs Forum.

Video Description via Sasha Anis on YouTube:

Simple install video for our MPP Page Mill 365mm Big Brake kit. Please DO NOT attempt this installation if you are not qualified. Licensed mechanics should be the only ones touching brakes on a car!

You can read the full installation instructions here, along with tools required:



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2. Tesla Model 3
Range: 310 miles; 136/123 mpg-e. Still maintaining a long waiting list as production ramps up slowly, the new compact Tesla Model 3 sedan is a smaller and cheaper, but no less stylish, alternative, to the fledgling automaker’s popular Model S. This estimate is for a Model 3 with the “optional” (at $9,000) long-range battery, which is as of this writing still the only configuration available. The standard battery, which is expected to become available later in 2018, is estimated to run for 220 miles on a charge. Tesla Model 3 charge port (U.S.) Tesla Model 3 front seats Tesla Model 3 at Atascadero, CA Supercharging station (via Mark F!) Tesla Model 3 Tesla Model 3 The Tesla Model 3 is not hiding anymore! Tesla Model 3 (Image Credit: Tom Moloughney/InsideEVs) Tesla Model 3 Inside the Tesla Model 3 Tesla Model 3 rear seats Tesla Model 3 Road Trip arrives in Tallahassee Tesla Model 3 charges in Tallahassee, trunk open.

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15 Comments on "Watch This Big Brake Install On Tesla Model 3"

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(⌐■_■) Trollnonymous

Bu, bu, but……..where’s the Super Sexy Aero wheel covers?!?!?!?!?

You only need the Super Sexy Aero wheel covers when you are done at the track and need to drive home nice and calm!

The Super sexy wheel cover setup will Not Work with this Mod . You need the bigger wheels 0r your modded calipers will rub on the inside of the super sexy wheels. lol.. because their diameter of the super sexy wheels is too small…lmao….That is the reason it’s best to Leave Things “Factory Stock” …Avoid future Headaches …

Tesla Stock on SALE again today.

FYI: Stock Up Today

All non-performance cars can use some brake upgrades.

I think anyone who likes to upgrade their cars, the first thing they should look is brake.

First thing should always be tires. Big brakes won’t do squat without some grip to go along with them.

First thing is a holistic plan. Know every upgrade, and how they work as a system.

Upgrading tires is a step backwards, if you later buy a different diameter wheel. Those wheels are a waste of money when you change suspension and need a different wheel offset to tuck the tires into the wells. Then your new ride height screws up your steering geometry and rear toe and camber so you need new adjustable steering links and/or arms. Those nice new brakes are great, until you do an axle swap and those brakes don’t fit. And neither do those wheels because the bolt pattern is different or the axle width is different and the offset of the wheels is now wrong. Etc. Not having a plan and doing “first things” is a good way to do everything twice (or more).

First do maintenance and address known weaknesses. Unsexy stuff like fluids, or timing belts, or cooling upgrades, or chassis reinforcement, etc. Tires with more traction might just be the tipping point to tearing those suspension mounts from the unibody.

Their instructions need to tell you to remove some fluid from the brake reservoir before pushing the pistons back in the calipers. If you don’t, you might have a messy situation on your hands (and new car).

That is actually standard instructions for replacing every set of brake pads for every car. It avoids overflow of the brake reservoir. Pushing the brake pistons in forces fluid back up the brake lines back into the reservoir.

Worst case is that fluid overflows the reservoir. Messy, but no big deal. Take your time and make sure the cap is back on good and tight, put some rubber gloves on, and wipe up what you can with paper towels and dispose of them in a trash bag. Then use a hose and rinse with lots of water. You can spray on a cleaner or degreaser, but lots of water will do most of the work.

Unless you have added fluid, there is the same volume of fluid in the reservoir as when the pads were new.

What exactly is a “licensed mechanic”?

Why do you not publish my opinion ? It must not be in accordance to your agenda ..If this Keeps Up , I will STOP my input once & for all . Thx & Cheers !

Resend. I don’t see anything that has been removed except some comments that went into spam. We didn’t delete it or remove it.